The Odyssey of Makoko: 2011

Cruising is great fun but can also be a little exy learning the ropes. While in Gibraltar we managed to cook the batteries, particularly irksome as they were almost new. After the guys tested the generator we neglected to turn off the booster battery charger switch with the result we returned from our 2 day trip in Andalucia to find the boat like an oven; unfortunately the automatic cut off switch didn't work so the batteries were red hot and boiling; luckily we only had to replace four at a cost of 1,100 euro!

Algericas was an interesting place to visit across the bay from Gibraltar. It has a huge port and is very untouristy, a nice change. I drove there to explore leavigg Dave on Makoko to do some last minute yachtie chores. The old town has a long history and a very Moorish feel about it. In Placa Alta all the Church, fountain and seats were decorated with colourful mosaic ceramics so I was in my element.

Time had come for us to leave Gibraltar, we had been there 2 weeks getting the water maker fixed, the sails, life raft checked and a few unexpected extras. We had to leave 3 hours after high tide so we didn't have to motor against an incoming tide. It was quite amazing to motor/sail out amongst the huge cargo ships anchored in the harbour waiting to be refueled by little tanker ships as shown in the photo. Gibraltar is one of the busiest harbours in the world and it was a great experience to be in amongst it all in calm weather! Some friends from Adelaide were flattened a couple of times when caught in a 60+ knot blow; it was mayhem as cargo ships dragged their anchors and it was too windy to safely get into the marina for shelter. So yachts had to stay out in the bay til the storm subsided.

Our passage through the Straits of Gibraltar was uneventful; there were a few whirlies but nothing to worry about. We passed close to Tarifa, the southern most part of Spain, 20nm from Morocco; we could see the Atlas Mountains towering in the distance. We had planned to spend the night at Tarifa but as it was only early afternoon and we had a good sailing breeze we decided to sail 15nm on to Barbate. The coastline was mainly flat with long sandy beaches, a haven for wind and kite surfers. Hundreds of wind generators dominated the skyline.

We spent our last night in Spain in a fancy marina at Barbate, the port is the centre of the tuna fishing industry. Half a mile offshore we found one of the huge 5 mile long tunny nets. The boys on board (Dave, Graeme and John) were most intrigued by the marker bouy which was an old tunny boat. This inspired us to put out a line but sad to say we didn't get a bite! With good wind SE winds forecast we decided to set sail for Madiera 300 nm west. The swell was a bit rolly polly and all the crew felt a bit seasick, so the beef stew I had already cooked was declined in favour of dry biscuits. Graeme and Jan were still recovering from a stomach wog they caught in Morocco. The lumpy sea was with us for the first 36 hours then it subsided so we could all enjoy some good food and the rest of the sail to Porto Santo

Dave and John admiring the the photogarpher from the viewpoiint overlooking the marina and beach at Porto Santo

We arrived at Porto Santo before daylight so anchored in the bay near the marina; the sun rose to greet us with a huge long sandy beach; what a beautiful place to celebrate my birthday. We hired a taxi to take us on a 2 hour drive around the small arid island. That evening we celebrated my birthday in a little local restaurant in the hills above Porto Santo. All the food was fantastic but the highlight for me was grilled limpits cooked in their shells in lemon and butter; they taste a bit like small abalone.

Dave and John admiring the the photogarpher from the viewpoiint overlooking the marina and beach at Porto Santo

Just before we went out to dinner there was this loud grinding noise, followed by the smell of smoke. Dave and I were down below and by the time we got up into the cockpit, the noise had stopped; we put it all down to a noisy fishing boat that was just went past. But we discovered the next morning this was not the case. Somehow, someone or something had knocked the button that engaged the switch that operates the main sail furling electric motor and it was burnt out; luckily we had a spare on board but it took Dave and Graeme most of the day to install it. I felt a bit guilty going off to the beach to swim and relax in the sun.

The eastern coast of Porto Santo was one long spectacular sandy beach with many life saver posts in case you got swept out into the deep blue sea. The water was surprisingly warm and crystal clear.

Beach hut on Porto Santo Beach

Porto Santo beach

We were amazed to find this canoe sailing boat in the marina. An aged intrepid Norwegian adventurer had sailed it from Norway and intends to sail it across the Atlantic.We admired his courage but decided we preferred the safety and comfort of Makoko

Porto Santo is a very dry arid island; you can drive round the whole island in 2 hours; the only green piece of land was the 5 star golf course. Most of their food and produce has to be imported from Madeira which is very lush and green

From Porto Santo we sailed 35nm to Madeira again in light NE winds. We arrived early evening at Marina Qinta de Lordes, a ritzy marina nestled below a cliff on the southern side of the NE cape of the island. It was a beautiful place to spend a few days but a long way from noweher so we decided to hire a car for 3 days.

Since we left Gib we seem to have been a bit jinxed; first the cooked batteries, then the mainsail electric motor, now no shore power; every time we plugged in our electric cable to shore power it shorted out the whole pontoon. Dave and Graeme changed the plug on the electric lead, to no avail, so after much fiddling it was decied an electrician was needed. So the boys stayed on board the next day while John, Jan and I went off to explore Funchal the capital of Madeira. The marina electrician came and sorted out the problem, a calcified element in the hot water cylinder was shorting out our 24 volt power system . It took a few hours to discover the problem and Dave thought he would be hit with an enormous bill but the guy said no payment as he worked at the marina, so he got a hefty tip instead!

Funchal is a very historic city being founded by the Portugese in the 16th century. The old town was fascinating with a labrinth of narrow cobbled streets running into large placas with shady trees, bubbling fountains lined with impressive medieval churches, palaces and public buildings built of stone and white wash. I particularly liked the mosaic tiles which were laid in fancy geometric patterns.

The NE Cape of Madeira was rugged and the scenery spectacular with steep terracotta coloured cliffs plunging into the sea. Our marina was on the southern side of this cape, a 3km walk away. There were many fantastic walking trails all over the island but sadly we only had time to do one.

Dave and John did a 12 km walk along one of the levadas that take the water from the mountain ridges down to the villages. We dropped them off and drove down the mountain to pick them up 3 hours later. Jan and I found a village where wicker basketry is the main product; I bought an oblong tray to use as a fruit bowl on Makoko. Graeme bored with shopping had an afternoon siesta in the back of the car. We then drove through spectacular mountin scenery of cedar and oak forests to where we were going to pick up the boys. I walked along the levada for an hour and met up with them.

It was quite a feat driving to this viewpoint the second highest sea cliff in Europe. There were five of us in Fiat Pinto, but just as well we had a small car as the road to the top was very narrow; it wound through little farming villages which were surrounded by terraces where the farmers grew all sorts off fruit and vegetables. Not only did we have to avoid oncoming traffic but we had to weave our way round piles of vegetables on the side of the road waiting to be collected for the local markets

Cabos de Lomos was a great spot to stop for dinner. It is still a local fishing port and the old village nestles around the small cove
with the mandatory little bars.
Food and drink was so cheap in Madeira compared to elsewhere on our travels. An expresso with milk was 60 euro cents and the traditional yummy pastry to go with it 85 cents.

This was the view from a little local bar where we enjoyed a glass of Madeira, which when served chilled is a really enjoyable apperitf. We then wandered up the street to a restaurant and enjoyed some freshly caught seafood. I drove the 30km back to the marina as the others had had too much Madeira and wine.

In a small fishing town on the north coast

we came across this traditional thatched roof cottage; the old lady who lived there was very proud of her house and beautiful garden and loved showing it off to passesby.

The north coast of Madeira is very rocky and rugged with few sandy beaches. This spectacular swimming pool ran along one side of a little cove, a calm and safe haven as the swell and sea swirled around beside it.

As we left the marina we sailed along the coast a few kms so I could photograph the airport and runway which was canterlevered into the sea; an impressive feat of engineering.