The Odyssey of Makoko

SABA and ST NEVIS: March 22nd-3st

A week ago we said our goodbyes and sailed across to Virgin Gorda, checked out of Spanish town then sailed around the point to Mosquito Island and anchored for the night. Next morning we filled up with diesel at Leverick Bay. The wind freshened to 25+ knots so we decided to stay in North Sound. We set off early the next day hoping to set course for Antigua but the wind was on the nose and we had to sail a very tight reach; to make matters worse there was a 2 metre swell and lumpy seas. I must admit, it got the better of me and I was seasick. Dave was also off colour. So by evening we had had enough and as we were being blown toward Saba a tiny volcanic island in the middle of nowhere and until the 50’s almost inaccessible, we decided to have a go at anchoring in the dark. Northstar was very good and guided us in past Diamond Rock and the Pinnacles.  I went up the bow and got a bit of a shock when suddenly I saw boulders and waves breaking on the shore. We did a quick turn around and motored back to where I had seen a mooring buoy and much to my amazement managed to pick it up first time ( not bad as it was dark). Next morning we woke to find ourselves moored in Wells Bay under towering sleep cliffs near the old landing place where in the old days the locals had to climb 800 zigzagging steps hauling up  cargo (including things like pianos).

Saba Island

 The only road from  on the coast up to the two main towns Bottom and Windwardside  was completed in 1958 and was built completely by hand.  We had to go in the dinghy to Fort Bay 2nm along the coast to check in. We then hitched a ride up the steep hill to Bottom which was a remarkable little town of white weatherboard buildings with brightly coloured shutters, ornate carved wooden verandas, red roofs and lovely  gardens full of bougainvillea, hibiscus and flowering tropical plants.

 After an ice coffee and a toasted pastrami roll we headed uphill to the other side of the island on the old road now a walking track ; the views were stunning and so was the tropical rain forest. We enjoyed exploring Windwardside,  its interesting galleries and lovely old colonial architecture before hitching back down to the coast. We were very relieved to see Makoko waiting for us in the exposed anchorage. After a rolly polly night we decided to set sail again but were very pleased we had got blown to Saba as most of the time it is impossible to anchor there because of the swell. The island was an unique experience and so different from the others we have visited; it is untouristy and quaint and all development is strictly controlled to fit in with the cultural landscape.

hand and  There are 1,5000 inhabitants mostly of Dutch, Scottish and English descent along with a few Africans that came as slaves.

Unfortunately the wind gods were not with us, so we had to rethink and decided to head for St Nevis 40nm away; it was again a very tight reach and as again we were blown of course we had to motor the last 15nm. We arrived late afternoon and anchored at Pinneys’ Beach near  Charlestown the capital.

 As there was no mooring facility at Charlestown we had to take the dinghy and motor 2nm to check in. As I was getting climbing onto the pier somehow  the dinghy went out from under me and the next moment I was valiantly clinging to the wooden pier but unfortunately lacked Tarzan’s skills and  fell into the water.  I got a few abrasions and bruises but mostly hurt pride! Dave would not take me back to get changed so much to the delight and amusement of the locals I stripped off to my underwear(luckily not too revealing) hung my shorts, t-shirt and belt out to dry and laid down on the jetty and had a sunbake and sleep while Dave went off to check in. As always it was a palaver of form filling; first customs, then the police, treasury to pay up ($80 in total) then back to customs to get the papers stamped; the whole process took 2 hours. To recover from the ordeal we decided to leave sightseeing til the next day and headed to Sunshine’s, a typical Caribbean beach bar for a rum punch and barbecue dinner. 

Most of the inhabitants of Nevis are descendants of ex slaves who worked on the now defunct sugar plantations. We caught a local bus to Gingerland and wandered around some of the old plantation estates now up market tourist complexes. Golden Rock in the foothills of Mt Nevis was our lunch stop.  We sat on the terrace outside the old stone storage cellars and enjoyed hearty lobster sandwiches and magnificent views out to sea.

 Nestled amongst exotic tropical gardens were  brightly painted weatherboard workers cottages now colonial accommodation. Glenys the manager drew us a map so we could walk the old road back to Charlestown.  The first part of the walk was in rain forest then we unexpectedly found ourselves wandering through some pretty poor villages of shack housing with colourful bars and shed shops attached.

 Then suddenly as we reached the southern side of the island we were surrounded by palatial houses set in acres of landscaped gardens, enclosed with barb wire fences and barking dogs. How the other half live!

 We got back to our dinghy late afternoon after a fun day to discover that some B……… had stolen the oars.  Sod’s law as I am writing this poor old Dave is working on the dinghy engine; this afternoon as we set off into town  the motor just stopped and would not start; luckily we drifted on to a buoy which we tied onto; Dave managed to get it going and we went a few hundred metres when it died again. This time there were no buoys to grab and we were slowly drifting out to sea when the police boat going past responded to my frantic waves and came and towed us back to Makoko. I am trying to keep Dave smiling but it is pretty hard at the moment as soon we just get one problem solved another arises to test his skill and patience.  There must be some good times around the corner.